Definitely an out of time experience, is Granada. I really did luck out in my choice of cheap accomodation. Anyone else who might be wanting to go there, and save money to stay longer, and ok with a possible bunk bed, it is worth the trouble to take buses up the hill, to stay at the Flophouse by the Mirador de San Nicolas. With all of the Albaicin around you, every little walk is a sensory immersion in the history of Andalusia. Bit by bit the pieces of layers of influence soak into your heart and head. The Alhambra beckons from every mirador (viewpoint). Then, after walking across the river to get to it, you find yourself soaking up some deeply spiritual art.
For me, the contrast from Barcelona's Gaudi works (and my sincere apology to Gaudi fans if this is insulting) was like day and night- I did enjoy Gaudi, but the art of the Alhambra, which I presume was his inspiration, has the opposite effect. The juxtaposition of extremely differing patterns and motifs is done in a way that was calming rather than abrading, makes me feel introspective, grounded, and peaceful, instead of crazy as was Gaudi's effect on me. Of course, that is my personal opinion.
The restaurants in Plaza Larga were kind of fun- there were two main ones that used up a lot of the space for their outdoor tables. Sitting there a lot of the local color presents itself. Boys ride through on horses, lovely hippies with dreadlocks are everywhere (Granada is a hippie mecca), muscled guys in Gothic black with tattoos- but wearing tights -wander past. Musicians are always playing there, and some are really good. I shared my fish dinner with a little yellow cat, who politely waited under my table.
The bill kind of irritated me, as the proprietor had put a basket of bread on the table, then charged extra for it. So the next day I ate at his competitors place, owned by a large and flambouyant woman who is most warm and welcoming. The food however was very greasy and over salted. Ah, well, so it goes. I met a couple from Switzerland there, and people from India, Norway, and England in other parts of town.
My host at the Flophouse gave me a tour of some of the side streets in the Albaicin and the Realejo, the old Jewish quarters of the town which is practically right under the Alhambra. To see the Alhambra itself I stood in line at 7:30 in the morning, for an hour, but did get in the same day which is only possible because there are 600 tickets per day reserved for people like me who don't plan ahead. The grounds can be seen for free, but to get into the main attractions like the palaces, the fort, and the 'Generalife', you pay 12 euros. The palaces alone are worth it. All the pictures on the internet help give an idea of the splendor, but can't begin to impart how it feels to be there.
For me, the contrast from Barcelona's Gaudi works (and my sincere apology to Gaudi fans if this is insulting) was like day and night- I did enjoy Gaudi, but the art of the Alhambra, which I presume was his inspiration, has the opposite effect. The juxtaposition of extremely differing patterns and motifs is done in a way that was calming rather than abrading, makes me feel introspective, grounded, and peaceful, instead of crazy as was Gaudi's effect on me. Of course, that is my personal opinion.
The restaurants in Plaza Larga were kind of fun- there were two main ones that used up a lot of the space for their outdoor tables. Sitting there a lot of the local color presents itself. Boys ride through on horses, lovely hippies with dreadlocks are everywhere (Granada is a hippie mecca), muscled guys in Gothic black with tattoos- but wearing tights -wander past. Musicians are always playing there, and some are really good. I shared my fish dinner with a little yellow cat, who politely waited under my table.
The bill kind of irritated me, as the proprietor had put a basket of bread on the table, then charged extra for it. So the next day I ate at his competitors place, owned by a large and flambouyant woman who is most warm and welcoming. The food however was very greasy and over salted. Ah, well, so it goes. I met a couple from Switzerland there, and people from India, Norway, and England in other parts of town.
My host at the Flophouse gave me a tour of some of the side streets in the Albaicin and the Realejo, the old Jewish quarters of the town which is practically right under the Alhambra. To see the Alhambra itself I stood in line at 7:30 in the morning, for an hour, but did get in the same day which is only possible because there are 600 tickets per day reserved for people like me who don't plan ahead. The grounds can be seen for free, but to get into the main attractions like the palaces, the fort, and the 'Generalife', you pay 12 euros. The palaces alone are worth it. All the pictures on the internet help give an idea of the splendor, but can't begin to impart how it feels to be there.
Tapas: On the Tropical Coast, where I have been the past few weeks, a wonderful tradition is that when you buy a beer or a glass of wine (around $1.50) you get a free tapas, ('topper') or small plate of a seemingly random snack. It might be bread with cheeses or meat or tomaotes, or broad beans cooked in olive oil and garlic, or any of a number of tasty treats. I read that the custom originated using the plate to cover the drink as a way to keep flies out- then something was put on the empty plate perhaps to make it more festive, who really knows. If you are on a budget, you could get by without meals, just a few 'tubos' of beer or tasos of vino tinto...
I did the bus relay again on leaving, four buses total to get to Alhuarin el Grande. I am becoming more comfortable with asking people where are we, and where am I going, and find they are usually happy to help, especially if I try to speak Spanish.
My host here in Alhuarin el Grande, Isabel, is an amazing woman who built houses in Granada for years, and built this small mansion also. She is an artist as of a few months ago, when she can find the time between working on finishing this big house with a few acres of grounds, gardens, swimming pool, frog and turtle pond, etc. I am working on grouting some tiles on a stairway- and helping her in the garden. A young man from East Germany is also here, who has much to say about philosophy and politics. More on that later, hasta luego.
My host here in Alhuarin el Grande, Isabel, is an amazing woman who built houses in Granada for years, and built this small mansion also. She is an artist as of a few months ago, when she can find the time between working on finishing this big house with a few acres of grounds, gardens, swimming pool, frog and turtle pond, etc. I am working on grouting some tiles on a stairway- and helping her in the garden. A young man from East Germany is also here, who has much to say about philosophy and politics. More on that later, hasta luego.
I learned on our trip to Italy that all restaurants have a charge for bread, which they call cupperto, and is seen as a service charge, which is the European equivalent of a tip. Even that bad Tuscan bread without salt.
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