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Saturday, July 3, 2010

The Burren and the Poet











The music in Kinvara, at Keogh's, was fabulous. Ten musicians made the tiny room crowded already, and it was standing room only for a while, but it was free, except for the glass of Guiness. A guy named Billie Carr seemed to be the senior member, and it was an informal gathering, a jam session. He played a squeezebox and spoons, others played fiddles, mandolin, guitars, the Irish drum, flute, pipe, and irish bagpipes.

I met a few of the locals there, quite friendly and talkative. I plan to go again tonight, maybe a different place. Saturday night means even more choices.

I took the hostel bike yesterday and explored the closer part of the burren, which is hills of limestone full of ancient building and grave sites, and now a national park. The tallest hill is only about 1000 feet, but the views from there are spectacular. I took some pictures from part way up, then the battery died, but you can get the idea.

Several houses- and a hotel in Kinvara- have new thatched roofs. It seems to be a growing trend, and it really is beautiful. The Merriman Hotel in Kinvara is one of the largest buildings anywhere with a thatched roof.

I am reading a small book on Yeats, who spent a lot of time in this area, and was a visitor in this house (Doorus House) in the 1890's, talking with Lady Gregory about starting a theater company in Dublin. Yeats lived from 1865 to 1939. I think I mentioned earlier about visiting his grave up near Sligo, where he spent a lot of his younger years. It is just coincidence that I find myself on his trail. Or is it?

I am slowly learning the hostel management business, but business is even slower... A few people each night, would be more interesting if it was busy I think. A few hours of cleaning each day, and check ins in the evening- not too strenuous. I am thinking of renting a car for a while, as the bike has issues, or I do with the hard seat it has, and there is much more to see and do that is just out of reach. After practicing riding a bike on the left side of the road, I have a little more confidence I could drive on the left without total brain freeze.

Mostly, this place is really laid back, and I do have lots of time- so far I have nothing else planned and can stay here til I go home if I so wish. I have to admit that the appeal of making more moves to more strange places has lost some of it's luster. For now.
I have booked a flight from Dublin- which is half the price than from any other city in Europe- to return to Utah on July 20. So I'm thinking from now on it is just a matter of learning all I can about Counties Galway and Clare.

1 comment:

  1. It will be good to see you, Phoebe, and hear about your adventures. Here is a bit of my favorite Yeats.

    TURNING and turning in the widening gyre
    The falcon cannot hear the falconer;
    Things fall apart; the centre cannot hold;
    Mere anarchy is loosed upon the world,
    The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
    The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
    The best lack all conviction, while the worst
    Are full of passionate intensity.

    Surely some revelation is at hand;
    Surely the Second Coming is at hand.
    The Second Coming! Hardly are those words out
    When a vast image out of Spiritus Mundi
    Troubles my sight: somewhere in sands of the desert
    A shape with lion body and the head of a man,
    A gaze blank and pitiless as the sun,
    Is moving its slow thighs, while all about it
    Reel shadows of the indignant desert birds.
    The darkness drops again; but now I know
    That twenty centuries of stony sleep
    Were vexed to nightmare by a rocking cradle,
    And what rough beast, its hour come round at last,
    Slouches towards Bethlehem to be born?

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